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Rapaport

Magazine

January 2023 cover
Table of contents
IN-DEPTH
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Note from the Publisher

As the world goes through great economic, social and political change, the diamond and jewelry industry faces unprecedented opportunities and challenges.

Synthetic Diamonds Are Having a Quantum Effect

Lab tech: Grown stones’ chemical properties are spurring progress in computing, sustainable energy, and other emerging fields.

Students visit Tiffany & Co. as part of an educational initiative for historically Black colleges and universities (HBCUs). (Tiffany & Co.)
LVMH and Tiffany Team Up for Inclusive Training Program

Collaboration targets diverse community of aspiring jewelry artisans.

Elliot Carlyle 1280 used 030523
Meet Elliot Carlyle, the Man Helping Open Doors for Jewelers of Color

Elliot Carlyle is on a mission to give underrepresented creators the resources they need to succeed.

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COVER
Lylie
Trash to Treasure: The Brands Turning Used Materials into Sustainable Jewelry

To reduce waste, companies are recycling gold and silver from discarded electronics and film.

Image: Christian Tse stands beside his robotic polishing system. (Christian Tse)
The 3D Printing Revolution

Designer Christian Tse is working to perfect this promising production method for precious metals.

The Cartier Ballon Bleu Serti Vibrant, with diamonds set on tiny springs that move with the wearer. (Cartier )
Watchmakers Are Turning Up the Sparkle

Manufacturers are putting a twist on classic setting techniques.

Misahara
Doing PR with QR

These scannable codes are gracing high-end accessories that serve as blingy business cards.

GÜBELIN
Provenance Proof Aims to Keep the Gem Sector Transparent

Tracking progress: The Swiss-owned traceability program uses blockchain and other tools to log each stone’s journey.

The Gucci Vault uses immersive storytelling, games and NFTs to engage shoppers. (Gucci)
Jewelers Thinking Outside the Box to Showcase Their Wares

Display models: Brands are employing everything from augmented reality to non-fungible tokens.

Graff diamond necklace with detachable pear-shaped, 13.88-carat Colombian emerald drop, which sold at Bonhams in September for $570,207. (Bonhams)
The Auction Market Is Becoming Harder to Forecast

Signed jewels and white diamonds are some of the safer bets for collectors, insiders say.

The 18.18-carat Fortune Pink diamond, which sold at Christie’s in November for $28.9 million. (Christie’s)
Big Stones, Small Splash?

After a slew of headline-grabbing prices, top colored diamonds have started tapering off. Experts say market fatigue may be denting the wow factor.

SOTHEBY’S; christie’s
US Magnificent Jewels Sales See Respectable Results

Legends of New York: From the Golden Canary to an array of pieces with dramatic histories, the auctions in the Big Apple turned out well despite a few misses.

Christie’s; Sotheby's
November Swiss Auctions Exceed Expectations

Geneva achievers: The latest sales reinforced luxury jewelry as a port in the storm of economic turbulence.

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RETAIL
The Tampa Bay Buccaneers’ Super Bowl LV championship ring by Jason of Beverly Hills has a removable top that reveals a secret stadium design. (Jason of Beverly Hills)
Super Bowl Bling: Tapping the Fanfare

The most important game of the year happens in February, and the winners take home the ultimate jewelry prize: a championship ring.

Owner Randy Mitchum and his wife Kristie. (Mitchum Jewelers)
TV and Social Media Help This Family Jeweler Boost Sales

Randy and Kristie Mitchum keep up a vigorous public presence to stay top of mind for their customers in Ozark, Missouri.

Permanent bracelets by Stuller. (Stuller)
Permanent Jewelry Is Here to Stay

Get zapped: The trend sparking interest among customers of all ages.

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STYLE & DESIGN
A digital artwork by Huge, titled Magentaverse. (Huge/Pantone)
And the 2023 Pantone Color of the Year Is…Viva Magenta

Magenta magic: This shade is a perfect match for reddish gemstones like rubellite and spinel.

Pearls on the runway at Nensi Dojaka’s SS23 show. (Nensi Dojaka)
Oversize Jewelry Is a Big Hit

Generation XXL: Giant adornments were all the rage on the spring-summer 2023 catwalks.

An image from Ara Vartanian’s “The Dinner Party” campaign. (Ara Vartanian)
Rebel with a Cause: Ara Vartanian’s Edgy-Yet-Thoughtful Creations

The designer’s namesake brand seeks to make comfortable jewels that fully harness gemstones’ energy.

An image from a campaign by Messika, featuring its gold and diamond jewels; Jewelry Guide: The Ultimate Compendium. (Isabelle Bonjean/Messika; Assouline)
Reviewing ‘Jewelry Guide: The Ultimate Compendium’

This wide-ranging book covers everything from history and gem properties to big brands and buying tips.

Dealer Brad Wilson; An Art Nouveau locket in 14-karat gold with enamel and diamonds, circa 1905. (Wilson's Estate Jewelry)
Have a Heart: The History of a Much-Loved Shape

Dealer Brad Wilson reflects on a motif that’s been popular in jewelry for centuries.

Kat Florence ring with a 2.15-carat alexandrite and diamonds in 18-karat gold. (Kat Florence)
Alexandrite the Great: One of Nature’s Scarcest Gems

This mesmerizing chameleon of a stone is known for its color-changing properties and the rarity of its valuable Russian variety.

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MARKETS & PRICING
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Trade Report: China Rebound Lifts Sentiment

While still weathering global economic challenges, the trade hopes the end of Covid-19 restrictions on the mainland will boost sales.

Diamond in tweezers credit Shutterstock 1280 used 021623
US Wholesale: Diamond Suppliers Cautious After Solid Year

The steady barrage of negative economic news has dealers concerned about the impact on business.

jewelry store display credit Shutterstock
US Retail: Performance Down for the Holidays

Is inflation hitting the industry, or is the market experiencing a correction following a blockbuster 2021?

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THE FINAL CUT
Chic Pistachio; Karina Brez; Cindi's Diamond & Jewelry Gallery
Ready to Commit

Rapaport Magazine asks: What is your New Year’s resolution for 2023?

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