Couture’s Must-Have Jewelry for the Holidays

June in Las Vegas sets the scene not only for rising, sizzling temperatures, but also for the hottest jewelry and watch trends. Every year, top-tier buyers from the most prominent retailers across the globe gather at Couture to meet some of the world’s leading and emerging fine-jewelry designers. Over the course of four days, the Wynn hotel provides an intimate and luxurious backdrop as the media, retail and jewelry industries collide. Here is an exclusive selection from the 2024 Las Vegas Couture show, featuring this holiday season’s jewelry must-haves.

Pearls

While pearls have always played an undeniable role in jewelry collections, in the late 20th century, some started to see this versatile, elegant and timeless gemstone as only fit for black-tie events, the boardroom, or country clubs. However, over the past decade, designers and wearers alike have ushered in a new era for the pearl, embracing a more modern and playful take on this beautiful gemstone. Amrapali London, Beck, and Octavia Elizabeth were some of the brands that highlighted this trend in their collections at Couture this year. Playing on this gemstone’s adaptability, each designer catered to different end consumers with their fine-jewelry designs.

“Pearls have always been classical and elegant, but I think they are now seeing a resurgence in a more creative way,” says Sameer Lilani, managing director of Amrapali London. The sizes and shapes the brand uses are “purposely curated to look random but work well together, with carved gemstones and colored knotted thread between to highlight the contrast with the beautiful luster of the creamy white pearls. Fine jewelry needs to be fun and wearable in today’s context.”

Demonstrating the recent growth in the popularity of pearls, the global pearl-jewelry market, valued at $2.77 billion in 2021, reached $11.8 billion in 2023 and is projected to reach $31.9 billion by 2032.

‘It’ bangles

Bangles remain a staple in fine-jewelry collections, with brands looking to establish their own iconic “It bangles.” Appealing to customers of all ages, these pieces can become like second skins for jewelry wearers. Clients can choose to wear their bangles individually or create their own curated stacks, giving voice to their personalities. At Couture, Jade Trau, Nikos Koulis, and Tabayer were some of the names that stood out in this category. Their designs spoke to their respective brand aesthetics, were minimal yet made a statement, could easily transition from day to night, and could be worn on their own or stacked with other pieces. According to Trau, “bangles have always been a category that felt like a footnote within our collections, but one that is still intimately woven into the fabric of the Jade Trau brand. After a few rounds of experimenting and playing, we found our own way to create a collection of bangles that were casual yet luxe, and versatile enough for any occasion.”

Time-ly jewelry

The interplay between watches and jewelry is closer than ever, with celebrities like Rihanna and Taylor Swift leading the trend by wearing watches as necklaces in the last year. Although these lines have been blurred in the past with the ring watch — a vintage accessory dating back as far as the 1700s — this is an exciting new trend that is particularly attractive for fashion-centric consumers who have an appreciation of time and jewelry.

This year, fine-jewelry brands Anna Maccieri Rossi, Harwell Godfrey, and Yvonne Leon took it one step further by designing pieces that pay homage to time-telling.

“As a watch designer, introducing the theme of movement in jewelry and creating pieces that can move and transform bring surprises and wonder,” says Rossi. “There are so many beautiful jewelry pieces and watches in the world, but no one has designed pieces that remind you that time is precious and that each second counts. For me, more important than knowing what the right hour is or admiring a perfect beauty is being aware that life is now.”

Jumbo initials

Initial necklaces have been around for a while; back in the 16th century, English Queen Anne Boleyn famously wore a “B” pendant on a strand of pearls. Until recently, this jewelry style has predominantly trended toward dainty designs, but in the last year, coinciding with the shift from quiet luxury to loud luxury, initial necklaces have also transitioned from dainty to jumbo letters. 

What makes this trend so attractive is that it still incorporates sentimentality and personalization while making a statement, appealing to anyone who likes to express themselves boldly. From rainbow-colored initials to bubble Gothic letters to a Retro boxed style, designers Emily P. Wheeler, Marie Lichtenberg, and Renato Cipullo had the wow factor at Couture. 

“The alphabet in jewelry is a challenging exercise. It is a classic that designers constantly need to reinvent,” says Lichtenberg. “The alphabet design we worked on is what I would describe as traditional, but with a twist. [The pieces] are a statement of self-expression.”

Statement rings

The maximalist look is here to stay, and statement rings have taken center stage, allowing consumers to express themselves as boldly as they like. This trend is especially appealing to consumers who like to be playful with their jewelry and wear pieces that are conversation starters. Although it is a maximalist trend, the design can be as intricate or minimalist as desired, casting a wide net for people to express themselves in different ways. Francesca Villa, Helena Rose, and NeverNoT were some of those at Couture leading the charge with their attention-grabbing statement rings. From jumbo-sized letters that literally make a statement, to chunky Bibendum-type rings with colorful stones, to a collection of reversible rings featuring vintage cameos and miniature hand-painted portraits, these pieces will get people talking.

According to NeverNoT cofounder Nina Dzhokhadze, “we all could use a little more playfulness these days, and gold whimsical pieces will certainly give you something to smile about and create memories.”

Main image: Time to Wish bracelet by Harwell Godfrey, featuring diamonds and multicolored gemstones in 18-karat yellow gold. (Harwell Godfrey)

This article is from the July-August 2024 issue of Rapaport Magazine. View other articles here.