All 24 items at the first live auction of non-gendered vintage jewelry watches at Sotheby’s found buyers, with the entire group selling in less than an hour.
The top item at the sale, called Rough Diamonds, was a Patek Philippe Ref. 3290 bracelet watch, ring and necklace set, created in 1962 by Gilbert Albert, decorated with enamel and pearls. The set sparked a more than six-minute battle between seven bidders, finally selling for CHF 393,700 ($435,727), over seven times its high estimate, Sotheby’s said Friday.
In total, the April 11 auction garnered CHF 1.2 million ($1.3 million), nearly twice its upper presale price.
“Rough Diamonds was born from the desire to bring to market a concept watch sale that truly resonated with collectors,” said Josh Pullan, global head of Sotheby’s luxury division. “The results of tonight’s sale, with all 24 lots selling to such a diverse and enthusiastic group of buyers, has validated that vision. The fact that the Gilbert Albert-designed Patek Philippe — the most idiosyncratic and extravagant lot in the sale — has become the most valuable lot sold tonight proves that there is a definite appetite amongst buyers for nonconformist and boldly eccentric timepieces, presented in a differentiated context.”
Other items that performed well included two Audemars Piguet watches. The first, a Cobra Royal Khanjar from 1985, brought in CHF 165,100 ($182,724), while a car-shaped white gold, diamond and emerald-set wristwatch from 1995 fetched CHF 107,950 ($119,474). Both pieces smashed their high estimates. Meanwhile, a Patek Philippe bangle watch from 1976 more than doubled its upper price tag, going for CHF 63,500 ($70,279).
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Main image: The top-selling Patek Philippe collection. (Sotheby’s)
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