Viva Italia

Sustainability and craftsmanship were big themes at the January edition of VicenzaOro — the first major jewelry trade show on the calendar and a leading barometer for design trends in the coming year. Footfall was brisk as retailers from around the world flocked to the fair in Vicenza, Italy, to order the latest designs for the new year and to network. The mood was upbeat despite fears over slowing economies and the trade confrontation between the United States and China. Sustainable creativity was the topic of discussion at a well-attended panel on the first day of the show. Speakers including Paris-based designer Lydia Courteille and Vogue magazine contributor Lynn Yeager talked about the modern consumer’s insistence on high ethical standards and respect for the environment in jewelry making. Meanwhile, jewelry-trend analyst Paola De Luca suggested that the industry was focusing too much on millennials. The market, she declared in a presentation, needs to wake up to the older generation, which has formidable purchasing power. Innovative craftsmanship was evident across the range of jewelry at VicenzaOro, predominantly “Made in Italy” items from local brands. Here are some of the leading design trends from the show.

Coral

Pantone’s Color of the Year for 2019 is Living Coral, “a nurturing color that appears in our natural surroundings,” according to the institute. That shade influenced a profusion of coral jewelry creations at VicenzaOro, mainly at Italian booths. Capri-based brand Chantecler, renowned for selling joyous fine jewelry to the international “jet set,” presented an array of playful coral pieces. Among them were rings meshing small sinuous sculptures with red Mediterranean and white coral as part of the Chérie collection, and items from the Enchanté collection featuring diamond pavé, red and pink coral, and precious stones. Precious coral from the great ocean depths is considered sustainable in jewelry production, speakers told a packed seminar by the Federation of European Education in Gemmology (FEEG).

Pearl

Ever since a pearl and diamond pendant that once belonged to ill-fated French Queen Marie Antoinette sold at Sotheby’s for a world-record price of $36 million in November, there has been a strong revival in consumers’ fascination with pearl jewelry. At VicenzaOro, designers Autore and Yoko London showcased fine pearl jewelry with a contemporary twist. The Australia-based Autore presented the latest intricately crafted pieces from its Stars & Galaxies collection, while Yoko London showed off a new necklace made from golden South Sea drop-shaped pearls combined with diamonds. The piece will be the basis of the brand’s next collection, which will feature a blaze of color. Several Yoko London pieces also incorporated large tassels in a reinterpretation of Art Deco glamour.

Metal innovation

Florence-based brand Annamaria Cammilli presented 18-karat gold in a range of colors, launching “chocolate brown” gold rings at the start of 2019 to complement other gold hues such as “natural beige” and “apricot orange.” A pioneer in using different alloy combinations to showcase multiple shades of gold — such as in the rings from its Dune collection — the jeweler foresees strong consumer demand in the US and other leading markets this year. “Women love this range because they can choose the right color for their skin tone,” said Natasha Lazorova, the company’s North America brand manager. US label Monica Rich Kosann, which exhibited in VicenzaOro’s high-profile Design Room, is known for its 18-karat gold lockets. But it is also venturing into steel jewelry, such as the 47-inch Sun, Moon and Stars chain its namesake designer wore at the show.

New materials

The latest generation of designers mixed and matched traditional precious metals and gemstones with unusual materials such as ebony, bakelite, rubber and nautical cord. Italian brand Giadangroup offered a fresh, colorful look in its jewelry: One necklace boasted rings of African ebony amid natural gemstones, while a bangle predominantly in jade incorporated a standout bakelite sphere. Vicenza-based Kriss showed off bracelets with synthetic rubber manufactured at its local facility, while Thailand-based designer Lucy G. showcased her Color of Fruit bracelets, featuring gem-set fruit symbols and tough nautical cord. “The cord is resistant and durable and resists rain,” explained Lucy G. owner and designer Giuliana Loglisci.

Images: Autore Rose Cut earrings. autorepearls.com.au; Chantecler Enchanté ring in pink gold, red coral, and diamonds. chantecler.it; Annamaria Cammilli Dune rings. annamariacammilli.com