Victorian Elegance

The Victorian era is a treasure trove of inspiration for today’s jewelry designers. Among the jewels of that period were pieces that sent out secret messages through a shrewd selection of botanicals or gemstones corresponding to specific letters. Theatrical jewels recalled the past glories of civilizations such as ancient Egypt, spurred by society’s fascination with then-fresh archaeological discoveries. And of course, there was the dark allure of mourning jewels. For subtler twists, today’s artists can use darkened metals to pay homage to the blackened silver that was popular at the time, while cluster or rough rubover settings capture the period’s style perfectly. Flora, fauna and bow motifs also create touchpoints with history, as do materials such as enamel, onyx, old-cut diamonds, emeralds and seed pearls.
Elaine FattalThis designer teamed up with Sotheby’s Diamonds to create this gold and platinum neckpiece, which stars two original 19th-century diamond and demantoid-garnet butterflies.
AnanyaA slab of onyx adds darkness to a modern interpretation of a cluster setting — the halo — in this white-gold, diamond and topaz ring. ananya.com
Lukas GrewenigThe metal-cutting technique this designer used in his Mourners Eye collection creates images that only appear in the right lighting or under a camera flash.  
AntoniniThe blackened silver of Victorian jewels is reimagined with rhodium plating on gold in these diamond and emerald Extraordinaire earrings. antonini.it
Erica WeinerThe colored gemstones in these Secret Message Acrostic gold rings spell out coded messages.
Azza Fahmy The Egyptian jeweler captures the Victorian frenzy for both tomb raiding and intricate metalwork in this 18-karat yellow-gold, emerald, diamond and sapphire bracelet. azzafahmy.com
Image: Adobe Stock

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