Seeing Colored Gemstones in a New Light

Demand for colored gemstones is on the rise, fueled by social media popularity and difficulties in the white-diamond market. Two gemstone companies are set to capitalize on this growing market with new twists on older cuts.

Anglo-Chinese mining firm Fuli Gemstones and Thailand-based stone supplier Navneet Gems & Minerals unveiled their lapidary innovations at Jewellery & Gem World in Hong Kong last September. By accentuating the beauty of peridots and rubies, respectively, the distinctive cuts offer a compelling freshness for the increasingly discerning consumer.

The proprietary Fuli cut is “a modern update” of a classic shape, perfect for the company’s signature peridot, according to Fuli executive director Pia Tonna. The green stone is known for its pleochroism — the way it changes color depending on the viewing angle — as well as its birefringence, which means that rays of light split when they enter the stone, creating extra sparkle. The Fuli cut maximizes both effects, says Tonna.

“Taking the timeless antique cushion cut, we added seven new facets to the pavilion and cut the gemstone on the cross, revealing Fuli’s distinctive vivid green and incredible liveliness,” she explains. “We like to push the boundaries of innovation in everything we do, and exploring gemstone cutting to bring out the natural beauty of our peridot without being gimmicky is just one example.”

Meanwhile, Navneet launched a collection of responsibly sourced portrait-cut rubies. The earliest records of this highly technical cut are from ancient India, where artisans used it on diamonds to create glass-like protective covers for miniature paintings. The thin, flat cut features a large table with facets on the sides to make the diamond look larger. Applying the technique to colored gemstones is a new approach, according to company marketing manager Navneet Agarwal.

The collection aims “to enhance the ruby options for buyers, especially jewelers,” he says. “The response [at Jewellery & Gem World] was phenomenal, but repeat business will only come with distribution.”

Main image: Fuli cut peridot from Fuli Gemstones. (Fuli Gemstones)

This article is from the January-February 2024 issue of Rapaport Magazine. View other articles here.