Playful Pins

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If there is one jewel that has proved its flex appeal this year, it is the brooch. It works styled on men’s lapels and within starlets’ tresses, on the red carpet and with fluffy winter sweaters and overcoats. As a jewelry category, it has an impressive fluidity when it comes to gender and genre.

No longer a niche staple of the vintage and antique market, brooches are increasingly making their way into contemporary jewelers’ new collections. What is really driving this trend is the brooch’s ability to express its owner’s personality, and even secret — or blatant — messages of support and allegiance.

As such, much scrutiny has been given to the thoughtfully chosen brooches of women on the global stage — among them Lady Marjorie Hale, who wore a spider as she ruled against British Prime Minister Boris Johnson in court; Lady Gaga, who sported a golden dove at US President Joe Biden’s inauguration; and Queen Elizabeth II, who wore a butterfly during her COP26 speech.

Capable of such tacit emotive power, brooches should be a little adventurous. How this manifests will vary from person to person. For a man not used to wearing jewels, a simple diamond pin on a tuxedo can speak volumes. Others might veer toward a bolder bloom or animalistic design, or perhaps a sculptural swirl or playful motif. Their nonverbal prowess aside, brooches are simply good fun.

Simon Ardem

Diamond and pearl brooch in 18-karat gold.

simonardemny.com

Theo Fennell

Venym brooch in 18-karat gold with diamonds and sapphires.

theofennell.com

Vendorafa

A selection of brooches in 18-karat gold and silver with diamonds, colored gemstones and enameling.

vendorafa.net

Anthony Lent

Hands to the Stars brooch in 18-karat gold, platinum, diamonds and sapphire.

anthonylent.com

Chanel

No.5 Signature Bottle brooch in 18-karat gold, diamonds and sapphires.

chanel.com

Castro NYC

Money emerald brooch in 18-karat gold and bronze.

castronyc.com

Syna

Skull brooch in 18-karat gold with diamonds and carved Ethiopian opal.

synajewels.com

Lenka Kerlicka

Big Organic Diamond brooch No. 02 in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds.

lenkakerlicka.com

Boucheron

Chromatique brooch in 18-karat gold and titanium with holographic ceramic, diamonds, and tourmaline.

boucheron.com

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