Note From the Publisher: Fancy Shapes

A cutter would look into a rough diamond and see potential polished diamonds in a variety of shapes. It’s all about three-dimensional imagination. Sometimes the thought process is simple; the shape of the rough dictates the optimal shape of the polished. Other times, especially for large diamonds, the options are endless. Master cutter Gabi Tolkowsky once told me the rough diamond talked to him. It told him what it wanted to become.

The advent of Sarine and laser technology created new ways to optimize polished results. The trade-off between yield and beauty became evident. Imagine a heart shape with Mickey Mouse ears versus flat top shoulders. Or the symmetrical curves of a pear shape with a French culet and minimal butterfly effect. Wow.

Fancy shapes also speak to consumers from the cool, stark, strong look of the emerald cut to the scintillation effect of the radiant. The marquise attracted women who wanted a different elegant look and designers imagined jewelry that highlighted it.

When it comes to fancy shapes, preferences are often personal. Young women imagine the shape of their future engagement rings. They know what they want. The only thing missing is the fiancé.

Fancy-shaped diamonds are fun and offer new ways to look at diamonds. They stimulate demand through personalization and encourage creativity among jewelry designers. Most of all, they encourage imagination, from the cutter to the consumer. They think, “What does this diamond say to me?”

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This article is from the March-April 2024 issue of Rapaport Magazine. View other articles here.