Hong Kong: Budding Jewelers Get in the Loupe

A new platform for discovering and nurturing young local and international jewelry designers and to inspire the general public through the art of jewelry launched in April. The initiative, called Loupe, is the first of its kind in Hong Kong and perhaps globally. It is the brainchild of Chow Tai Fook Jewellery and Chow Tai Fook Art Foundation. As Chow Tai Fook approaches its 90th anniversary, Loupe is its effort to “drive Hong Kong’s jewelry industry toward sustainable development,” said Kent Wong, managing director of Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group. “Loupe is a multipurpose design-incubation space with a greater plan — to bring the jewelry designers’ community together, raise awareness of art and design, and provide a tasteful and relaxed environment for art lovers, professionals and families to unwind and appreciate craftsmanship,” Wong added. “We seek to inspire people through the art of jewelry, nurture the next generation of designers and artisans, and continue the culture of jewelry appreciation.” Loupe also aims to create new businesses and employment across the Asian jewelry industry and to share Chow Tai Fook’s knowledge with the world through a series of master classes and workshops. Educating and engaging those from the industry and the general public plays a key role in achieving its objectives. Five key elements of Loupe

1. Residency: Loupe offers a designer-in-residence program for emerging jewelry designers and students interested in the trade from around the world. This includes a comprehensive mentorship program to support them in all aspects of their career development. They are given access to a free workspace, relevant tools and equipment, and a retail space where they can sell their creations. Industry experts from Chow Tai Fook and other industry-related institutions provide guidance and knowledge-sharing for the emerging artists.
2. Education: Knowledge-sharing is a priority. “There is something for everyone at Loupe,” Wong noted, highlighting a series of monthly workshops and seminars aimed at professionals and the general public. Some of these are hosted by the resident jewelry designers, such as Jewcells’ pearl-hunting workshop, where participants learn the professional method of opening an oyster to retrieve the pearl and how to design a personalized pendant.
3. Boutique: Designers in residence and local artisans can showcase and sell their creations in a specially designated retail space.
4. Exhibitions: Up-and-coming jewelry designers and artists have access to an exhibition space to showcase their creations and share their vision.
5. Teahouse: Here visitors can relax and enjoy freshly baked goods, many inspired by jewelry designs.

Creating experiences Feedback from the first batches of artists in residence, selected through a competitive process, has been generally very positive. Carrie Yang, a Hong Kong-based jewelry designer and former student of Central Saint Martins in London, said that before her residency, she had been working very conceptually. “Loupe provides an opportunity for me to learn more about how to actually make a product for sale. There is technical support and very close communication with the factory,” she explained. Other designers spoke of the opportunity to share experiences with their peers and help each other. “We jewelers have been doing our own thing individually, but didn’t have a platform to share our experience. Here I can speak to other designers and we learn from one another,” said Cecilia Ng, also a local jeweler and trained metalsmith. Sharon Cheung, another Hong Kong designer, who launched her own jewelry brand MIDOTI in 2014, said Loupe provided a good platform for her to elevate her brand to the next level. Mihaela Ciubotaru, a Swiss-trained jewelry designer, found the kind of exchange she had been searching for at Loupe. “It has been interesting to see the things we share cross-culturally and how I translate that into design,” she elaborated. Committed to making Loupe a success, Chow Tai Fook hopes that more industry stakeholders will support its approach and partner with it in advancing this platform. “Our goal is that this program will be self-sustained. It’s a long-term approach,” Wong concluded.