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In Cartier’s latest high-jewelry collection, Sixième Sens par Cartier, you will find a secret rose-cut diamond. In addition to the cluster of rose-cut trillions lighting up its Phaan cocktail ring, there is one more hidden beneath its 8.20-carat central ruby.
The architects of this ring will tell you that this is not a frivolous display of haute-joaillerie excess, but rather a clever gemological trick. The positioning of the rose-cut diamond improves the lighting beneath the ruby, thus enhancing its color.
Understated beauty is a concept that has threaded through the history of this cut; from delivering masculine shimmer for maharajas, to playfully throwing shards of color across the faces of candlelit Victorian women.
Today, its soft power is still in vogue with a contemporary crowd. Designer Ellis Mhairi Cameron, who works with brown and orange rose-cut diamonds, has been inundated with orders for both male and female styles.
“With rose cuts, they can go for bigger stones, without the design being as flashy as a brilliant cut,” she says.
Omi Privé has similarly responded to “an uptick in desire” driven by demand for vintage styles. However, the brand argues that rose-cut diamonds are not only capable of understated shine — they also have a larger surface area, which adds depth and extreme sparkle.
