Pomellato’s Manifesto of Freedom

The Italian maison’s choice of bright colors and smoothly hidden settings reflects its philosophy of liberation.

April 2, 2024  |  Sonia Esther Soltani

Since its launch in 1967, Pomellato has been championing feminine empowerment and freedom, with creations and campaigns starring strong personalities such as actress Jane Fonda. Earlier this year, the Italian maison unveiled its Free Gems manifesto, reaffirming its intention to set gems in a style that shows off their individual qualities.


The Milanese brand’s most iconic design, the Nudo ring, manifests this ethos via its special cut and setting technique. “Nudo defines liberty in the way that the gemstone is devoid of settings and prongs,” says Pomellato creative director Vincenzo Castaldo. The solitaire ring, centering a polished gemstone with 57 facets, is instantly recognizable thanks to its distinctive floating effect, which it achieves through a
fixing system concealed inside the collet at the stone’s base.

A selection of colored stones. (Pomellato)

Some of Pomellato’s most exclusive creations feature rough stones, such as aquamarine, delicately encased in a diamond-studded net that lets the color proudly stand out.

We chose a range of evocative gems in unusual colors that are vibrant and express strong emotions.

“We have created one-of-a-kind high-jewelry pieces using rough gemstones precisely because they have their own natural beauty and character,” explains Pomellato gem master Stefano Cortecci. “They are a pure expression of independence.”

The same free spirit has inspired the selection of vividly-hued stones such as indicolite, tanzanite, tourmaline and spinel. “In the Ode to Milan collection, we chose a range of evocative gems in unusual colors that are vibrant and express strong emotions,” says Cortecci.

Nudo-cut sky topaz. (Pomellato)

Pomellato’s daring color combinations are a brand statement, he emphasizes — “the chromatic games that express our true and unconventional creative freedom.”

Main image: Nudo rings set with various colored gemstones. (Pomellato)

This article is from the March-April 2024 issue of Rapaport Magazine. View other articles here.

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