A Star Is Platinum Born

Rarer than gold and more hard-wearing than silver, platinum jewelry is currently giving white gold a run for its money. Platinum Born, a specialist brand that produces jewelry at an atelier in Japan, is leading the charge, reporting sustained year-on-year growth in the US market. But why does this white metal shine so bright?

“With gold now twice the price of platinum, platinum represents an alternative to white gold,” explains Rebecca Moskal, Platinum Born’s vice president of marketing. “It maintains a natural ‘true white’ tone and is celebrated for the creamy patina that develops over time, which underscores authenticity.”

The gentle white color can enhance any skin tone, and most platinum jewelry is 97% pure, making it naturally hypoallergenic. But while its spectacular color intensifies the radiance of gemstones, Platinum Born has chosen to focus on the unadorned beauty of this precious metal.

Lustrous origins

Using material mined in South Africa — which produces 80% of the world’s platinum — the brand creates sophisticated and unusual jewelry. Since launching in 2018 with an original capsule collection of 12 necklaces, it’s grown to include five collections with over 100 pieces.

In 2022, platinum jewelry enjoyed a ninth consecutive year of growth in the US, according to Moskal, and the brand “works hard to find partners who share our passion for platinum and who have an existing customer base…or clients with a desire to learn more.” Today, sales are spread evenly across 30 independent fine-jewelry retailers in the US, as well as 13 branches of upscale department store Neiman Marcus.

The brand launches a new collection each June at Couture Las Vegas, and so far, designers have dug deep into the metal’s history and origin for inspiration. “Platinum arrived on earth two billion years ago in a meteor shower — meaning it was truly born from the stars,” relates Moskal.

Innovation that shines

Considering the sparkle of Platinum Born’s jewels, you would be forgiven for thinking a cascade necklace was a string of diamonds. In fact, the brand bases its complex, versatile designs on faceted beads, with creations ranging from shimmering strands to woven cuffs and an ingenious magnetic necklace. The collection’s broad appeal spans minimalist pieces and statement-makers alike.

Part of platinum’s allure is its mystery. Commonly a symbol of purity and enduring love, it is a rare metal that is hard to work with and was long reserved for the kings and queens of history. In June, Platinum Born will see “an evolution of the collection, both in product and imagery,” says Moskal. “As a brand, we will continue to push the boundaries of innovation…and strengthen our relationship with women who choose to celebrate the extraordinary.”

Why Japan?

In the Platinum Born workshops outside of Tokyo, skilled craftspeople work to highlight the natural characteristics of a metal that’s notoriously hard to handle.

An experienced team of designers collaborated with metallurgists to create the faceted beads the brand uses in its intricate pieces, defining the exact shape and weight they would need for maximum sparkle.

Using a manufacturing innovation currently only available in Japan, the beads catch the light in the same way as a diamond, producing a striking radiance even in dim light.

“We believe the end result to be truly unique and different from any other collection on the market,” says the company’s Rebecca Moskal.

With the highest per-head consumption of platinum in the world, Japan is the biggest global market for the metal, which represents over 50% of jewelry sales there, according to the World Platinum Investment Council. Not only is it a popular choice for Japanese jewelry buyers, it’s also a common form of investment.

“Japanese designers have a deep understanding of the quality, beauty and possibilities of platinum jewelry designs,” Moskal says. “The juxtaposition of old-world craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology allows us to continually push the boundaries of platinum jewelry.”

Main image: Model wearing Platinum Born jewelry. (Platinum Born)

This article is from the March-April 2024 issue of Rapaport Magazine. View other articles here.