RAPAPORT…
There was an interesting paradox at the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show, an all-purpose, multifaceted trade show serving both dealers and retailers. Many exhibitors said they sold more in the first two days this year than they had during the entire 2010 show, but they also were disappointed that there wasn’t more for them to buy. The trade-only show’s attendees include jewelry manufacturers, estate and loose gemstone dealers, all of whom are there to buy and sell to each other, as well as to retailers.
This year’s four-day event was held June 2 to 5 in the Paris Hotel Las Vegas and included more than 300 companies. Show organizers reported a record crowd, with a 38 percent year on year increase in attendance. According to exhibitors, the show started off very strongly, with brisk traffic and enthusiastic buying, netting a number of participants more sales than they had expected. Most estate dealers agreed that the slightly improved economy, plus the relative scarcity of desirable goods, have helped bolster their sales.
“It’s been a great show; customers are getting back their appetites to buy,” observed Sara Payne Thomeier, vice president, ProVockative Gems Inc., New York. Echoing her sentiments was Simon Teakle, Betteridge Jewelers, Greenwich, Connecticut, who said that although the first two days of the show were strong, he regretted not being able to find enough “nice things” to buy. “But if it were easy,” he said philosophically, “then everyone would do it.”
Big, Bold and Salable
With material costs escalating daily and many contemporary designers opting for smaller, lighter-weight pieces, it was surprising to see all of the big, bold jewelry featured at this show. Among the most dramatic designs were those from David Webb, Bulgari and Henry Dunay, as well as larger pieces from Tiffany & Co., Cartier, Seaman Schepps and Van Cleef & Arpels.
Asked if today’s buyers are interested in these chunky pieces, exhibitors were in agreement. “We can’t keep the big stuff in stock; nobody’s making it anymore,” said
David McKeone, J.S. Fearnley, Atlanta. Among this company’s showstoppers was a three-row coral necklace in diamond-shaped angel skin, salmon and red coral shades, interspersed with diamonds. An expert from Van Cleef & Arpels saw it and said it might be a one-of-a-kind necklace produced by that firm, and if so, the value would skyrocket.
Also enjoying success with larger, heavier pieces was John T Haynes, Dallas. Company Principal Christopher Lawson said, “In Texas, big, bold pieces are always popular.” A recent trend for his company has been buying and selling more colored gemstone jewelry, in which diamonds are used as accents rather than center stones. Diamond prices are so high that color has more value to customers, he surmised. Lawson is also seeing interest in other colored gemstones beyond rubies, sapphires and emeralds. “People want to show their success with the jewelry they wear, so after they work their way through the ‘big four,’ they expand into other gemstones,” he concluded.
Buyers are looking for jewelry that is “classic, but with a sense of style,” said Donald Stone, principal at Pierre/Famille, Aspen, Colorado. “People here are looking for things that represent the best of the period, or a name their clients will identify with. We nearly sold out of all our signed pieces.”
In general, there didn’t appear to be as many diamond dealers at this show as in past years, although some estate jewelers did have assortments of unmounted goods. Robert Hakimiam, Prince Diamond Inc, New York, exhibited a large selection of untreated rubies and diamond solitaire earrings. He said most sales were of medium-quality diamond solitaire earrings of about 1 carat each; at holiday time, the larger diamonds sell better.
Offering some spectacular nonvintage diamond jewelry was Gorgoglione, Milan, Italy. Its collection included a suite made with slices of raw diamonds set in handmade 18-karat white gold, as well as other high-fashion pieces pairing black and white diamonds. According to Francesca Gorgoglione, this was the company’s second time at this show and its principals are still trying to learn about the American market and to gauge the proper audience for its highly specialized goods.
Big Names in Fashion
Crossing the line between fine and fashion jewelry were a number of companies that offered vintage costume jewelry, as well as diamonds and gold. Olivia Garay of Olivia Garay Vintage Retro, New York, whose product mix ranges from big brands to funky, unusual pieces, said that as always, big names dominated her sales. These brands included fashion jewelry from the 1960s and 1970s signed by Hermès, Gucci and Chanel.
Taking a slightly different approach to jewelry is Aaron Faber Gallery, New York. Edward Faber, company principal, said in addition to his thriving vintage watch business, the pieces that are selling best in his gallery are signed examples of “studio gold art jewelry” from the 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s. He refers to these pieces, often of mixed metals and unusual designs, as “wearable fun.”
Offering modern goods with an estate flair was Indo Gems. This Indian firm showed
dramatic earrings, bib necklaces and cuff bracelets mixing rubies, emeralds and diamonds in traditional gold, as well as in amber and Bakelite. Rose cut diamonds were set in 14- and 18-karat gold, as well as in oxidized sterling silver.
Despite the improved overall sales, exhibitors said that buyers are generally more knowledgeable and selective than in the past, making their jobs a bit more difficult. Pierre/Famille’s Stone, whose clients include dealers from all over the world and retailers with sophisticated taste, said “Buyers today are more educated about purchases and that puts more pressure on us to find goods that are worthwhile.”
