Modern Mughal

RAPAPORT… Opulence blended with elegant simplicity is the signature of Mumbai, India–based jewelry retailer Bhagat. Combining traditional Indian elements with Western style, particularly from the Art Deco period, Viren Bhagat creates designs that contrast the past with the present. His sumptuous jewels appeal to sophisticated jewelry connoisseurs with a discerning eye for the unique.

Namrata Choksey, who authored an article on Bhagat published in the June 2010 issue of Vogue India, says that he “…could well be considered the face of Indian jewelry. Bhagat’s talent is manifested in an aesthetic that is dramatic and delicate, and plays between antique and modern.”

 Bhagat and his two brothers — Bharat and Rajan — are the fourth generation involved in the jewelry trade, continuing a family tradition established a century ago. Their great grandfather began the business in the town of Lathi, on the western coast of India in the state of Gujarat, making gold ornaments for the local noble and royal families. In the early 1900s, their grandfather, Dhanjibhai Bhagat, moved to Mumbai, where he set up a store selling gold and diamond jewelry in the heart of the bustling city. A generation later, Bhagat’s father, Vajubhai Bhagat, who is also a renowned painter, and his brothers moved the business to a new location opposite the Royal Opera House, which is now Mumbai’s diamond district. In 1990, Viren, along with his two brothers, relocated the business once again, to Kemps Corner in Mumbai, where Bhagat continues its retail operation today.

Beyond Mumbai, Bhagat’s jewelry is found throughout the Middle East, Asia, Europe and the U.S. In New York, Bhagat’s creations have been showcased at Fred Leighton, the Madison Avenue purveyor of the rare and collectible. In October of 2000, Christie’s New York featured Bhagat’s work in a special catalog — “The Contemporary Jeweler”— that presented just 15 designers. His jewelry has since been highlighted at Christie’s sales in Dubai, Geneva and Hong Kong.

“He has a keen eye for old Indian gemstones and natural pearls. And he is able to interpret Mughal India, with a modern twist to his jewels in a way that is only Bhagat,” comments Rahul Kadakia, head of jewelry, Christie’s New York.

In an interview with Rapaport Diamond Report, Viren Bhagat discusses what jewelry means to him.

Rapaport Diamond Report: What inspires your designs?

Viren Bhagat: I’m inspired by India. Everything about it inspires me, especially arts and architecture from the seventeenth century. I am deeply inspired by nature in all its glory.

RDR: How much influence does the spiritual importance of gems play in your designs?

VB: India is a land of spirituality. Indians believe that gemstones wield spiritual powers and have an energy of their own. A lot of jewelers in India do not deal with blue sapphires as they are supposed to be astrologically very powerful. Personally, I am not superstitious and I use all gemstones in my jewelry because of their beauty and history.

RDR: What is your favorite gemstone and why?

VB: My favorite gemstone is the Golconda Diamond. As the name implies, it is a diamond that originated from the legendary Golconda mines in central India hundreds of years ago. It appeals to me for its rarity, luster and the fact that it comes from my country.

RDR: What role do diamonds play in your jewelry designs?

VB: Diamonds play a very important role in my designs. They enhance the beauty of the jewel, as well as the wearer. I love the various colors, shapes and cuts available today.

RDR: You use a variety of unusually shaped diamonds. Are they special cuts for you and what do they add to a piece of jewelry?

VB: We use unusually cut stones whether they are diamonds or colored stones to enhance our design. For me, design is paramount; therefore, everything else follows it. So if we need to cut stones — regardless of type or value— to fit into a particular design, we do it.

RDR: In your opinion, what are the elements that make a piece of jewelry well made?

VB: The elements that go into a well-made jewel are design, proportion, execution and finish. Execution is as important as the idea.

RDR: How do you define good design?

VB: It is difficult to define good design. For me, the essence of good design is a marriage between form and function. A jewel is made to be worn on the human body and therefore has to serve the purpose with comfort, beauty and elegance all together.

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