Meet CAD, Making Customized Jewelry Possible

Computer-aided design (CAD) is enabling jewelers to build 3D models to offer more affordable and customizable jewelry.

“It’s so easy to go from creating a 1-carat diamond ring to a 2-carat ring with the press of a button,” says Dana Buscaglia, explaining how 3D computer aided design (CAD) expedites the design and jewelry making processes.

A designer can conceptualize the piece on a computer screen or scan a hand-drawn sketch. The design is printed on a 3D printer, which allows for further modifications before it is sent to a model maker for casting. Buscaglia favors Rhinoceros (Rhino) by GoMeasure3D for its flexibility and compatibility with design enhancing plug-ins, such as T-Splines by Autodesk and ZBrush by Pixologic, Inc.

Another 3D application for jewelry design is Matrix by Gemvision, which is owned by Stuller. “These products offer a tremendous range in their ability to go from basic shapes to free-form sculpting,” she notes.

With its capability to zoom in and out and rotate, 3D CAD affords views from all angles and in all directions. “There is a high degree of accuracy and precision in the process, especially in fitting the stones and ensuring the settings fit the stone,” says Buscaglia. “If you make a ring, you know it is going to be absolutely symmetrical from one side to another,” she adds.

While the jewelry sector was the last design-centric industry to embrace CAD it has now become an important tool. “3D CAD is completely integrated into our business,” says Erik Runyan, owner of Erik Runyan Jewelers in Vancouver, Washington, citing the software’s quality and consistency in creating micro-pavé pieces and halos. “It is a fantastic process for custom design, especially for a single store operator,” he adds.

Although not a design element, building customer relationships is one of 3D CAD’s strongest benefits. “We use 3D CAD every day,” says Dianna Rae High, owner of Dianna Rae Jewelry in Lafayette, Louisiana. “From a sales perspective, it secures customer confidence. We’re not saying ‘trust me,’ we’re showing them every step along the way.” After the design is printed, High will paint the 3D model in the color of the metal and set the stone so the customer can try on the piece.

Using 3D CAD saves both time and money, and is effective in streamlining jewelry-making. But as demographics shift, 3D CAD is playing an even more important role in responding to customer desires. “Millennials like to communicate online and be part of the process,” says Runyan. “They get it and love it.”