“Barbiecore” is a neologism so prevalent these days that it almost grates to give it space in yet another article, but if there’s a fitting place to bring it up, it’s in a discussion of heart-themed accessories. The playful pinks and cartoonishly simple heart shapes one might expect from the Mattel toy line are appearing in grown-up collections by designers such as Anne Sisteron, Emily P. Wheeler and Anna Lou — and they look fresh.
In the Barbie movie itself, Margot Robbie’s titular character wears a more refined gold vermeil heart pendant by demi-fine brand Missoma. Meanwhile, in And Just Like That, Sarah Jessica Parker’s Carrie Bradshaw — whom one might well describe as the unofficial New York Barbie — wears a gold Spiked Heart pendant by Marlo Laz with a radiating pattern of diamonds.
Stripping the look down are brands like Repossi, which is celebrating the 10th anniversary of its Antifer Heart line this year. The collection uses just the shape’s silhouette, but at unexpected angles.
Foundrae has cleverly hidden the motif within its abacus-inspired Heart Beat series of collectible gold beads: Decorated with enamel and gems, they sport heart-shaped holes for stringing onto bangles and chains.
For some jewelers, a heart-shaped stone is all that’s necessary to tap into this trend. Others are putting their own stamp on it. Karina Brez’s Horse Luv design uses the outline of two horses touching heads to create a heart. Annette Welander has devised an intricate 3D mazelike structure that ends in a diamond. Reinventing an icon is a tough ask, but a signature twist can create a style that will endure the many seasons of the heart.
Main image: Le Vian heart ring, pendant and earrings with Chocolate Diamonds in 14-karat gold. (Le Vian)
This article is from the September-October 2023 issue of Rapaport Magazine. View other articles here.