As Brazilian-born Graziela Kaufman sits outside her home in Utah, watching a deer cross the street, she reflects on the role nature plays in her life.
“Brazil has lush forests and that tropical feeling. Here, I live surrounded by animals, greenery and waterfalls,” the designer shares. “It’s different, but I feel deeply connected to both.”
Three years ago, after her four sons went to college or started their careers, she and her husband John moved from Chicago, where her Graziela jewelry brand has its headquarters, to Utah’s Deer Valley. As a young girl in Brazil, she used to ride horses, and she has since resumed this activity, even going back to jumping — the inspiration for a new 25-piece equestrian-themed collection that she will unveil at the Couture show in Las Vegas.
She will also present her latest one-of-a-kind Pássaro creations, which debuted at Bergdorf Goodman in March. Showcasing her work at the luxurious New York emporium was an emotional experience, Kaufman recalls, as it brought back childhood memories of visiting the store with her parents and being awestruck by the beautiful jewels on display. As additions to her successful Amazonia series, the Pássaro collar, ring, cuff bracelet and lapel pin pay tribute to the magnificent feathers of birds from the Amazon rainforest, incorporating gemstones in shades of blue and green.
Other novelties heading to Couture include pieces from her Bahia collection — inspired by the coconut ring her husband used to propose — and her Floating Diamond range, featuring fluid stone settings that create a sense of movement.
A rocky start
Today, Kaufman is a celebrated designer and a firm favorite on the red carpet, with a presence at prestigious stores and shows. However, her professional beginnings were challenging. The granddaughter of an Italian goldsmith, she came to the US with a Brazilian aesthetic.
“In Brazil, it’s all about the look. We wear tight shoes and have big earrings with heavy gold and lots of gemstones. My first jewels were heavy on the ear. I moved to the US, and people said it wasn’t comfortable. What do you mean, jewelry needs to be comfortable?” she laughs.
Despite this initial misconception, Kaufman adapted to the market and found her audience. And while she may have made her creations easier to wear since launching Graziela in 2011, she has retained her love of glamour and color.
Gemstone pioneer
The jeweler’s self-professed obsession with colored stones led her to explore Brazilian mines, searching for exceptional gems.
“I’ve been working with the same miners for over 15 years, so it’s really a mine-to-market supply chain,” she says. “I know where my gemstones come from, which is so important to me. I always say, my gems are happy gems because I know their trajectory.”
This close relationship on the ground led to the discovery of two gems previously unknown to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), and the designer trademarked them as Midnight Aquamarine and Graziela Tourmaline. The first is almost as dark as a sapphire, comparable to a London blue topaz, but with inclusions, as it’s a beryl, Kaufman explains. Graziela Tourmaline is a Paraiba without copper, so instead of a neon hue, it has a minty shade.
Kaufman was among the first fine-jewelry designers to use Paraibas, an homage to her native Brazil and a perfect match for her love of rich green and blue palettes. For the past six years, the Graziela brand has used titanium and colored rhodium to maximize the stones’ visual impact.
Looking out for the animals
Besides her now well-established signature style, Kaufman has also become known for her tireless devotion to animal welfare — to the point that it almost ruined her jewelry business in 2024.
“I donate 15% of all revenues to animal causes, but last year, it was 100%,” she relates. “We rescued 600 abandoned animals from Honduras. It nearly broke me emotionally and financially, but we did it.”
When she heard that one of the charities she supported on the island of Roatán had run out of funds and that the animals were in life-threatening conditions, she raised money, built a team of vets and volunteers on the ground, and worked around the clock to make sure the majority could be saved.
“This was the largest mass-exodus rescue of dogs from Central and South America in history,” Kaufman wrote in a moving social media post once she knew the animals had found new homes in mainland Honduras and the US.
The serenity of her surroundings in Utah and the unflagging support of her family brought her much solace during the soul-crushing process.
This fall, she will launch a new collection of two-sided pendants representing the four seasons and featuring views from her house. The winter medallion will display a snowy mountain and some playful elements, she says. Brazil will be represented, too, with a pendant featuring the beach, palm trees, and of course, a little bikini.
Graziela: A Few of My Favorite Things
Favorite gemstone?
That’s easy: Paraiba tourmaline.
Coffee or tea?
I’m a coffee girl, with a splash of oat milk. It keeps me going.
Traveling must-have?
My diamond cross that was blessed by Pope John Paul II.
Last book you read?
The Let Them Theory by Mel Robbins and Sawyer Robbins.
Happy place?
My home with my animals and family, and Brazil with my parents.
Main image: Graziela Kaufman. (Graziela)
