1. Pay attention to the details
“When it comes to estate jewelry, there’s more to consider than meets the eye — provenance, condition and authenticity are all crucial,” says Lee Siegelson, owner of estate jewelry dealer Siegelson in New York. “Each piece requires detailed attention, much like handling an important work of art, with full cataloging and documentation. Estate jewelry is never simple, and the last thing a retailer wants is to lose a valued client by offering something incorrect. That’s why experience — having bought, sold, and encountered many similar works — is so important. Expertise in this field comes from understanding the nuances that aren’t always visible at first glance.”
Lee Siegelson; platinum and diamond Tranche bracelet by Juliette Moutard for René Boivin, circa 1937, available at Siegelson. (Siegelson)
2. Get your jewelry appraised
“You should certainly have the estate jewelry checked out by a qualified appraiser, one who is at minimum a graduate gemologist (GG) or equivalent and someone who has gone through a proper appraisal course and who follows the Uniform Standards of Professional Appraisal Practice (USPAP) guidelines,” advises Sharlene Y. Bradbury, owner of jewelry appraiser Yantz Bradbury Associates in Rockville, Maryland. “When appraising, I look at styling, era of production, method of production, quality of the stones and the metalwork, content of the metal, and the aesthetic appeal of the piece, and then search for comparables in the secondary market or auction markets for valuation.”
Sherlene Y. Bradbury. (Yantz Bradbury Associates)
3. Don’t confuse evaluation with appraisal
“Estate items are being evaluated for purchase at a comparable market rate in the wholesale trade, whereas appraisals are official documents for the current retail replacement value, typically used for insurance purposes,” says Paul Lubetsky, founder and CEO of estate jeweler Windsor Jewelers in New York. “Condition of the piece matters, so inspect for signs of alteration, repair or damage, such as chipped stones, bent prongs, and oxidized metal. Check hallmarks on the material or perform tests to identify metal makeup; verify gemstones with in-house gemologists, lab reports, or by sending to labs for confirmation. Look for brand or provenance hallmarks, particularly for signed designer pieces or items made in France, Italy and England. Familiarize yourself with variations of these hallmarks. For antique pieces, having provenance or historical records can significantly affect both value and desirability. Keep track of demand for certain eras, as trends affect market value.”
Paul Lubetsky; Cartier diamond earrings in 18-karat yellow gold, circa 1940s, from Windsor Jewelers. (Windsor Jewelers)
4. Visit lots of shows
“Staying active in the auction world is essential, as auctions often feature unique period pieces,” says Mahnaz Ispahani Bartos, founder and CEO of the Mahnaz Collection gallery in New York. “Attending a variety of shows is invaluable for sourcing estate, antique, and vintage pieces. In New York, TEFAF at the Park Avenue Armory is an essential visit, while the New York Jewelry & Watch Show at the Metropolitan Pavilion is also good to visit. Depending on your specialized interests, there are wonderful shows to attend. The Palm Springs Modernism Show [in California] is one such event. It is a treasure trove of mid-century modern art, design, and architecture. If you collect Indigenous Native American jewelry, you must attend the Heard Museum Market [in Phoenix, Arizona,] and the queen of them all, the Santa Fe Indian Market [in New Mexico]. One of the largest fairs is the Original Miami Beach Antique Show, and it is not to be missed.”
Mahnaz Ispahani Bartos; Art Smith silver ring with gemstone cluster, circa 1950, at Mahnaz Collection. (Mahnaz Collection)
5. Beware of counterfeits
“The situation gets trickier with the proliferation of counterfeit jewelry and watches in the market, and one way you can avoid a perilous purchase is to work with an established and reputed retailer or seller,” suggests Janet Z. Dunayevich, cofounder of retailer L & Z Jewelry and Gifts in Morrisville, Pennsylvania. “Check how long the dealer-retailer you are keen to buy from has been in the business. Look up their websites, and check their referrals. I also urge new collectors to educate themselves really well: Look at what’s available at fairs, check out the wares at several dealers, and do a price comparison. Allow yourselves a few months to get acquainted with the dealer or store before buying from them. It is also crucial for any buyer to ensure the invoice contains all relevant information, including the condition of the piece, the time period it pertains to, details of the metal and its weight, type of stones (natural or synthetic), caratage of the natural stones, and as much information as the jeweler can provide. You need all of this documented in the invoice for the purposes of insurance, especially if they are significant in price and have provenance.”
Janet Z. Dunayevich; Anthonini necklace at L & Z Jewelry and Gifts, circa 1950, with diamonds, tourmalines and a 40-carat golden citrine in 18-karat gold. (L & Z Jewelry and Gifts)
Main image: A selection of vintage jewelry at Mahnaz Collection. (Mahnaz Collection)
