Design Directions

RAPAPORT… Creative endeavors reflect the times. And there was plenty of beautiful jewelry to meet the needs of today’s customers at the June JCK, Luxury, Couture and Antique Watch & Jewelry shows in Las Vegas, where revealed. The shows were a hubbub of activity, as retailers sought out jewels that they felt would pique the desire of their clients. As always, there were a number of trend directions in designer jewelry.

Mostly, there was a continuation of trends that have recently been gaining momentum. By definition, a trend is a look or style that builds up over the course of a few years as a reaction to current social, economic and political events, as well as pop culture media. The big influencers right now are, of course, the high prices of precious metals and diamonds, as well as the murky economy and a general feeling of restraint on the part of most consumers. The following design directions are a reflection of this current mind-set.

Black Diamonds have been growing in popularity in part due to their favorable price point and because, when mixed with white diamonds, they add pop and definition to a design. Use of black diamonds allows bigger pieces to be created at a more wallet-friendly price — a big plus for today’s consumer.

Over the past couple of seasons and moving into Fall/Winter 2011/2012, black and white combinations have made headlines on the runways. It’s a look that is classic, elegant and always in style. Whether it’s for business or evening, black and white is always right.

Blackened Metals were prominent at this year’s shows. The dark metals — silver or gold — were brightened with touches of gold filigree work, diamonds or colored gemstones. The black metal creates an old-world sensibility of mysterious lands and magical amulets, as well as adding a handcrafted feel to the jewelry. The look is also softer — even a shiny piece of blackened metal jewelry is more discreet than a shiny white or yellow metal. While this is a style that has long held appeal for the Goth set, it is mainstreaming to those who seek something a bit edgy and for those who want to wear a big piece without appearing too flashy.

Circle Pendants are everywhere. Geometric shapes are always an important design element, but currently, the most popular is the circular disc shape, often sprinkled with diamonds or with one round center stone, for a circle within a circle. Throughout time, cross-culturally and metaphysically, circles have held great meaning. Circles are said to represent the infinity of time and the cycles of life, the union between heaven and earth and the sacred boundaries of protection, as well as holding countless other meanings. The power of circles in jewelry is ever enhanced by the addition of diamonds.

Swing is in. Fringe, tassels, feathers and leaves with articulation are topping the charts as rocks shake, rattle and roll. Even a smaller piece with movement offers a lot of bang for the buck, as the swinging, dangling elements draw attention when the light catches their movement and reflects outward. Briolettes and organic, opaque diamond beads are a key element for this look that is feminine and funky at the same time.

Organic Diamonds continue to shine in jewelry design. Their soft, opaque colors and beautiful shimmer draw in the eye and create understated elegance that replaces the hard-core bling of previous years.

These diamonds are all uniquely one-of–a-kind, so even pieces with the same design will seem different because of the stones used. Along with great style, these diamonds also offer a friendly price point that is easily accessible to the self-purchaser.  

Colored Gemstones with diamond accents are becoming more and more popular. Amethyst, rose quartz, garnet, citrine, prasiolite, tourmaline, onyx, smoky quartz and other affordable gems are taking more prominent places in the spotlight. Jewelry with these stones offers a big look at a small price, a combination designed to tempt U.S. consumers. Color is very individual and it opens up a new way for consumers to express their personality, whether through a birthstone, a favorite color or something that matches a particular outfit.