Ancient Influences

An image of Aphrodite etched roughly into a ragged gold charm seems more suited to the low lights of a museum than a jeweler’s window, yet a fascination with Roman, Greek and Egyptian antiquities is driving designers to the ancient history books.

Cameos and intaglios — millennia-old gem-carving styles that have enjoyed a revival in recent years — fit perfectly into this trend. Images of empowering goddesses and classical-looking couples in flagrante are the artworks of choice for the purist hoping to tap into the rich storytelling vein of Greek and Roman mythology.

For those captivated by the adventures of ancient Egypt, there are contemporary jewels boasting scarabs, sphinxes and hieroglyphs, recalling the Egyptomania that swept Europe’s design scene in the 19th century. These exotic symbols sate a desire to connect with legend and lore, but also serve the zeitgeist for jewels that proffer talismanic protection. To pay homage to all of these civilizations, yellow gold is key. Using a purer 20- or 22-karat gold gives an authentic look, while ancient goldsmithing techniques such as granulation, hammering and rubover settings seal the deal.

Some designers, however, find that simply mimicking the past is not enough: They insert actual artifacts into designs to bring history alive in modern jewelry — a bold move that earns a thumbs-up from us.