The innovative jewelry designer, renowned for his collaborations with fashion designer Alexander McQueen, has become the darling of the young British royals.
Shaun Leane hit the headlines in September when the story broke that he had designed the platinum diamond engagement ring for Princess Beatrice of York, using excellent-cut, ethically sourced diamonds, including a 2.5-carat solitaire from Botswana.
Fusion of influences
Princess Beatrice’s partner Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi (Edo) had approached Leane on the recommendation of a close friend for whom the designer had completed custom-made bridal and family pieces.
“The ring is a fusion of Art Deco influence that Edo likes, and Victorian influence that Beatrice likes,” Leane told Jewelry Connoisseur in his showroom in upscale Mayfair in central London, a few floors below his atelier and design room, where the ring was handcrafted.
“I had to get under the skin of the couple to understand the nature of their relationship to entwine that into the design,” Leane added.
Bespoke designs
A classically-trained goldsmith, who later built up his own brand with an edgy signature style characterized by fluid lines or curves ending in a point, pieces from Leane’s collections have been worn by the young royals, notably Meghan Markle, Duchess of Sussex.
During the bespoke design process, Leane kept Edo fully informed about the creation of the ring over many weeks, even sending him videos of the polishing process. In keeping with his style, the claws of Princess Beatrice’s ring are curved, ending in a sharp point.
The burst of publicity surrounding the commission has put the spotlight back on Leane, who is widely revered as one of the UK’s top jewelry designers, having rubbed shoulders with the likes of Stephen Webster, Theo Fennell and Glenn Spiro.
Bespoke work like the ring for Princess Beatrice represents about a third of Leane’s turnover. Collections account for the remainder. Among other recent commissions, he worked on a necklace created around a huge yellow sapphire for an American couple, and a ring with a secret compartment for a male customer.
Professional pride
Leane is as proud of his collections as he is of his masterpieces, such as a well-publicized diamond-encrusted glove, painstakingly honed for socialite and entrepreneur Daphne Guinness.
He is also delighted that many of his customers wear earrings from his moderately-priced collections every day.
He sees his legacy as being remembered for crafting jewelry that reflects the 21st century. Leane is inspired by the masters of jewelry design, such as Cartier in the 1920s and 1930s, extending to JAR (Joel Arthur Rosenthal) today, whose pieces flourish in the high-value auctions market.
But for the most part, he does not look closely at the work of emerging designers. “I don’t like to look at other people’s work too much, as subconsciously you take that on board and, one way or another, it will come out in your own work. “I like to develop designs from my own ideas,” he says.
Main image: Shaun Leane photographed by Nicky Emmerson.
