This Dubai-born, New York-based jeweler sets ethically sourced diamonds in asymmetrical designs.
Growing up in a Dubai-based family that ran a gold workshop, Swati Dhanak felt it was “a natural progression” as she developed an interest in fashion and design to become a jewelry designer. Dhanak studied in New York, where she’s currently based, and worked for Armani and Chanel before launching her eponymous brand. Her 18-karat gold jewels, set with various diamond shapes and playing on asymmetry and geometrical lines, have been spotted on the likes of Tiffany Haddish, Nicole Kidman, Gigi Hadid and Zoë Kravitz.
When did you launch your own brand and find your design identity?
I officially launched my brand in 2016 but it took a few collections to really find my voice. Although my design aesthetic has always gravitated toward asymmetrical elements and finding beauty in broken, imperfect things, it took me a few collections to really refine it. Producing collections over time has also helped me hone [the] wearability/functionality of pieces in addition to design.
How do you source and work with diamonds?
All diamonds I work with are ethically and responsibly sourced from suppliers, many of whom I have been working with from the start. I also repurpose stones and use recycled gold from older samples whenever possible.
Diamonds are my absolute favorite stone to work with. Not surprising, since it’s also my birthstone. Although I love most diamond cuts, some of my favorites are heart, pear, emerald and marquise. These cuts have been centrally used in the Floating and Duo collections.
What are your influences?
It’s hard to point out specific influences, but different things inspire me depending on the day. It could be a painting on a day I went to the museum, an object on my desk or a diamond that I came across. After launching the Floating collection, I was really inspired by different diamond cuts. This gave way to the new Duo collection and the Four-way ring that has been split in its design. Each side of the ring highlights a different diamond cut/setting that includes a fancy-cut cluster setting, channel-set baguettes and round pave diamonds. It’s also a multi-wear piece as you can wear a different side up by simply turning the ring.
What’s your creative process like?
I make notes or sketches of ideas that come to me daily or whenever inspiration strikes. When it’s time to design a new collection, I look back at these notes and always take cues from my previous collections and build on them in new ways. Once I sketch something and produce a wax model, I usually end up producing different versions. I have used both hand-carved wax models and 3D-printed, depending on the piece. The Splatter collection was all made with hand-carved wax models.
After we finalize several pieces, I like to sit with them for a few days before starting production. This allows me to see how they work within the collection and if I really love them. I usually have a lot of pieces at the beginning of my design process and I eventually weed out the ones that I feel are the strongest and resonate with me the most.
Which other jewelry designers do you admire?
I admire so many, but two designers that I absolutely love and a completely different aesthetic than mine are David Webb and Victoire de Castellane from Dior. I have been obsessed with the Zebra bracelet from David Webb and Victoire’s Gem Dior collection. Jewelry from these collections are on my “special occasion” jewelry wish list.
Who is the Swati Dhanak woman?
The Swati Dhanak woman is anyone who loves diamonds and jewelry and is not afraid of showing it. She appreciates design, is fashion forward but with a refined taste.
What are you working on at the moment?
I am working on some special pieces that we plan to launch at the end of the year. Staying home during this time [Covid-19 lockdown] has given me a lot of time to think and design pieces that I feel will resonate and make a difference after coming out of this period.
