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Sotheby’s Single-Owner Sale Proves Not So Iconic

March 10, 2024  |  Leah Meirovich
Sotheby's 1280 USED 031024

Six of the top 10 items Sotheby’s offered at a single-owner sale of over 220 iconic jewels failed to find buyers.

The event, called From the Vault: Exceptional Signed Jewels, featured a curated collection with a focus on iconic motifs, such as Van Cleef & Arpels’ famous Zip necklace, a Cartier Panthère and a Bulgari Serpenti.

In total, the March 7 auction in New York, which featured pieces signed by well-known design houses, brought in $8.4 million, according to the Sotheby’s website.  Meanwhile, a matching necklace and earrings set by Asprey, which was due to lead the sale, was not on the final list of items. It was unclear at press time whether the piece was withdrawn. It was originally estimated to fetch between $2 million and $3 million.

The top seller at the auction was a cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut, 41.02-carat, fancy-intense-yellow diamond ring, which went for $1 million, within its estimated range.

Here are the rest of the top 10 jewels that sold at the auction:

This Zip necklace — composed of herringbone links bordered by heart motifs and accented by round diamonds — can be converted into a bracelet. The Van Cleef & Arpels piece, which comes with matching tassel ear clips, garnered $482,600, within its presale price range.
A Bulgari Serpenti necklace with round diamonds and pear-shaped diamond eyes sold for $406,400 against an estimate of $300,000 to $500,000.
Sotheby’s sold this Cartier necklace, composed of oval-shaped brown and yellow diamonds suspending a detachable pendant with a pear-shaped, 9.64-carat, fancy-brown-orange diamond, for $330,200, just above its lower estimate.
A Van Cleef & Arpels necklace with a detachable 7.28-carat Burmese ruby framed by diamonds brought in $355,600, within its presale price range.
This Bulgari bracelet set with round and oval-shaped ruby cabochons, as well as emeralds and diamonds, fetched $304,800, within its estimate.
A gold multicolored sapphire and pearl necklace by JAR realized $317,500, beating its $300,000 upper price tag.
These JAR earrings, set with cushion-cut yellow sapphires and round and single-cut diamonds, achieved $279,400, within its original price estimate.
A mystery-set ruby and diamond clip-brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, designed as a flower, went for $215,900, at the lower end of its estimated range.
A Bulgari expandable wraparound bracelet featuring emerald-cut diamonds weighing 1.68, 1.36 and 1.35 carats as well as baguette and pavé-set round diamonds surpassed its $220,000 upper estimate to reach $228,600.

Main image: The 41.02-carat yellow diamond ring. (Sotheby’s)

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