Lugano Diamonds Brings US Luxury to the UK

For the two years before its first European salon opened in London’s Mayfair this spring, California-based Lugano Diamonds did some soft marketing by sponsoring the Royal Windsor Horse Show, a charity polo event at Smith’s Lawn (Windsor) and the Serpentine Gallery in Hyde Park.

These events attract tech billionaires, property magnates and members of the scientific and medical world — the same cohort that forms the Lugano community in America, sharing a love of jewelry, sports and philanthropy.

“Building strong connections and making a positive impact has always been a priority for us,” says Moti Ferder, the accomplished diamond cutter who cofounded Lugano with his wife Idit two decades ago. They now own seven salons across the US that aim to create an at-home atmosphere where the brand can entertain.

London’s perks and pitfalls

Although the London salon only recently opened, “we are already beginning to see the early signs of community-building, which is incredibly rewarding,” says Ferder. The couple chose the city — despite the UK’s separation from the European Union — because several clients have homes in the capital, “making it a natural extension of our existing community,” he explains.

That said, VAT-free shopping for overseas visitors remains an obstacle for the company. Because of recent post-Brexit legislation, EU citizens cannot buy VAT-free at all, and others can only avoid the tax by having the brand ship the items directly to their overseas addresses.

Still, the London opening lets Lugano explore new markets “while continuing to nurture those where we are already established,” says Ferder. “Through these efforts, we aim to not only broaden our reach, but also deepen our impact, ensuring that our expansion efforts contribute positively to the communities we enter.”

London is a cosmopolitan city, and with this in mind, the company has brought in former Graff marketing chief Katherine Roach as managing director for the UK and for Europe, the Middle East and Africa (EMEA). She brings extensive experience working with Middle Eastern clients who make their home in London during the summer.

Designing the unexpected

Lugano’s fine and high jewelry has a relaxed, contemporary aesthetic, with designs that twist, loop and move in an unexpectedly light way. For its statement rings, the brand works with high-quality diamonds — including fancy pinks and blues — as well as emeralds and Paraiba tourmalines. It also incorporates more adventurous materials into its creations, such as rubber, carbonium, titanium, ceramic, and rhodium-plated gold. Rose cuts enhance the jewels, and setting diamond pavé around a piece’s edges makes for a 180-degree look.

But it’s not about price or the value of the gems; it’s about clients connecting with a piece in a natural way. “We intentionally avoid a singular design aesthetic,” says Ferder. Instead, Lugano offers a diversity of styles, “allowing our clients to discover pieces that reflect their individuality.”

Trans-Atlantic brands

Lugano Diamonds isn’t the only American jeweler making the trip across the Atlantic. Two US brands, Jade Trau and Marli, have joined the Harrods fine-jewelry department, neighboring the newly expanded space the iconic London store has dedicated to designer Suzanne Kalan.

The largest percentage of the store’s clientele is from the Middle East, which suits Marli founder Maral Artinian; she has a strong retail presence in the Gulf region. The Marli collection has an effortless and easy-to-wear aesthetic with an architecturally inspired modernity, featuring pavé-set diamonds in gold with pyramid-cut turquoise, lapis and chalcedony. British consumers are drawn to the mid-range price points, according to Artinian’s team, while Gen Z — the social media generation — is looking for entry-point designs that stand out from the established brands saturating the market.

The second-biggest demographic at Harrods is the local British shopper, who is drawn to “the cool-girl, left-of-center, NYC-based DNA” of the Jade Trau brand, says its eponymous founder. They like her casual luxe must-haves and the way she’s defining what the new diamond classic is. Trau predicts that the Billie Bangle she showed at this year’s Couture show, with its fancy-shaped diamonds, will sell well in London.

Main image: Lugano boutique in London. (Lugano Diamonds)

This article is from the July-August 2024 issue of Rapaport Magazine. View other articles here.