Italy has long been celebrated for its mastery of jewelry craftsmanship, especially the art of chain-making — a tradition that today represents a prominent part of Italian gold-jewelry exports.
In the first nine months of 2024, those exports grew by nearly 45% to reach EUR 9.8 billion ($11.29 billion), confirming Italy as the EU’s top gold-jewelry exporter, according to a recent survey by goldsmith association Club degli Orafi Italia and banking group Intesa San Paolo’s research department. In 2023, Italy accounted for 14% of gold-jewelry imports to the US, second only to India in that category, said the survey, which was part of a presentation at this year’s Vicenzaoro show in January.
Made-in-Italy chains are among the most sought-after items for American consumers, who are far from alone in their enthusiasm. In her latest book, Chains: Stories, Fashions, and Techniques of the Most Beloved Jewels, jewelry scholar Alba Cappellieri traces the history of the chain from the Sumerians to the present day, calling it “the most versatile, most loved, most explored object, but also the most varied. It has a close relationship with our body, unlike any other jewel. Historically an emblem of slavery, it also signifies wealth, prestige, belonging and rebellion.”
The timing of Cappellieri’s book, which launched earlier this year, is fitting: Chains are experiencing a revival in both high fashion and jewelry.
Social statements
Historically chains were purely functional; people used them to fasten clothing, to hold keys, or as practical accessories in ancient and medieval societies. Over time, these utilitarian links evolved into objects of beauty and status, with intricate designs and precious materials transforming the simple chain into a central design element of jewelry. In Renaissance Italy, for instance, heavy gold chains were emblems of power, often a gift from rulers to their courtiers.
During the 1970s, as women fought for their rights and independence, the chain became a powerful symbol of personal freedom and resilience. Pomellato was a pioneer in interpreting the chain as a social statement; in 1967, the Italian jeweler introduced its iconic gourmette chain, fusing bold aesthetics with social meaning.
“In the early ’70s, women were becoming more free, and yellow gold was used to create very modern jewelry,” explains Pomellato CEO Sabina Belli. “The issue of women’s rights is still unresolved due to gender-based violence, discrimination, and the ongoing struggle to reach the same status as men. The chains are extremely contemporary, and they must be placed at the heart of social awareness, reconnecting us to women’s ongoing liberation movements.”
Flexible and fun
Building on that legacy, Pomellato continues to reinvent the chain, incorporating a vast range of colored gems and introducing innovative interlocking mechanisms that make the pieces remarkably flexible and adaptable. Its La Gioia di Pomellato collection features the Gourmette Caméléon, showcasing 27 different gemstone shades in a celebration of individuality and joy. And its newly released Collezione 1967 high-jewelry line pays homage to the brand’s chain revolution, with unconventional arrangements of gold and diamond-set links framing lustrous gems.
Color and playfulness are also central to the designs of Chantecler, a Capri-based maison known for bold, vibrant interpretations of the classic chain. Taking inspiration from the Italian island’s cultural richness and Mediterranean spirit, Chantecler’s chains exude a joie de vivre.
Buccellati, known for its intricate gold lacework, infuses its chains with a textile-like softness, transforming them into expressions of craftsmanship and artistic heritage that echo the techniques of Renaissance goldsmiths. The theme of heritage continues with Bulgari, which recently revived its signature Tubogas chain — a sleek, flexible design that draws on the Roman maison’s rich archives while speaking to modern elegance.
Chains can also have emotional and spiritual meaning. Fashion house Dolce & Gabbana channels this aspect through luxurious rosary necklaces, weaving Italian cultural and religious identity into jewelry.
Fluid fashion
Milan-based Vhernier redefines chains through personalization. The brand’s Mon Jeu collection allows wearers to create custom chains with modular elements in materials like titanium, mother-of-pearl and diamonds, all through an intuitive app — a merging of craftsmanship and digital innovation.
Laura Bicego, founder of jewelry brand Nanis, challenges the conventional imagery of the heavy, rigid chain through fluidity. Her Libera collection — Italian for “free” — uses invisible clasps and modular designs to create chains that adapt to the wearer. They are bold yet delicate, strong yet light.
“Chains typically suggest rigidity and limitation,” Bicego explains. “I wanted to rewrite this narrative, introducing new lightness while preserving aesthetic strength.”
No discussion of Italian chains would be complete without mentioning Unoaerre, a historic maison from the Tuscan city of Arezzo that is often called “the first goldsmith house.” Synonymous with classic chain production, Unoaerre offers an extraordinary range of over 1,000 chain models in different metals, from classic gold rope chains to contemporary designs.
As younger generations embrace bolder jewelry styles and men increasingly incorporate chains into their everyday repertoire, Italian brands are responding with fresh interpretations that reflect evolving tastes. Valenza-based maison Damiani, for example, offers dedicated men’s lines, such as the Belle Époque Reel necklaces — sleek designs in white, yellow and pink gold with diamonds, intended for layering and everyday wear.
This new openness signals a broader shift: the chain is no longer gendered or purely decorative, but has become a dynamic symbol of identity, style and freedom.
Main image: A close-up of chain links in the Mon Jeu Maxi collection by Vhernier. (Vhernier)
