Sotheby’s is presenting a collection of pieces by the seminal British maker as part of its Fine Jewels auction in London.
Andrew Grima was one of the most exciting jewelry designers to emerge from London’s Swinging ’60s, an era known for an explosion of creativity as a fresh cohort of jewelers challenged the dull post-war status quo with provocative designs.
More than half a century later, Grima’s works remain highly collectable, and jewelry fans will have the chance this week to pick up coveted original designs at Sotheby’s.
As part of its February 9 Fine Jewels auction in London, Sotheby’s will offer 11 Andrew Grima jewels from a single owner. Pre-sale estimates for these pieces range from GBP 1,000 to GBP 20,000, and the date range spans the 1960s right up to the 2000s, offering a comprehensive overview of the designer’s style. Here they are:
- Woodland Omega watch/pendant
This unusual creation hails from the About Time collaboration between Grima and Omega. The watchmaker approached the jewelry designer in 1969, and he ended up making 55 watches and 31 matching jewels. His aim was to design pieces that did not look like wristwatches. This example is crafted in 18-karat gold and articulated rough diamonds, with a slice of citrine covering the watch face.
Estimate: GBP 15,000 to GBP 20,000
- Starburst pearl earrings
The textured 18-karat gold that is a Grima signature forms a starburst setting for a pair of cultured pearls, which have a golden body color with rose and green overtones. Surrounding these are more than 1.50 carats of diamonds. The earrings were made in 1986.
Estimate: GBP 3,000 to GBP 5,000
- Emerald ring
Crafted in 1968, this 18-karat gold ring is a Grima twist on a classic cluster. At its center is a pear-shaped cabochon emerald with a halo of marquise diamonds around it. The band has an open-work design that mimics the shape of the diamonds.
Estimate: GBP 2,600 to GBP 3,000
- Rhodonite ear clips
Striated 18-karat gold surrounds two cuts of rhodonite. The sizable earrings were created in 1971 and have been fitted with clips to secure them to the ear.
Estimate: GBP 3,000 to GBP 5,000
- Grey pearl ear clips
Undulating 18-karat gold frames a pair of grey cultured pearls to create these bold statement earrings, which Grima made in 1997. Collet-set brilliant-cut diamonds add a flash of brilliance to the luster of the pearls.
Estimate: GBP 3,000 to GBP 4,000
- Starburst pearl brooch/pendant
This brooch, which is also wearable as a pendant, is a matching design to the Starburst earrings in the sale. It was created in the same year — 1986 — and features a golden pearl and diamonds in 18-karat gold.
Estimate: GBP 3,000 to GBP 5,000
- Chalcedony and ruby ring
A smooth cabochon cut of chalcedony sits at the center of this 18-karat gold ring, which the designer made in 1969. The band is engraved in an abstract pattern and contains smaller cabochon rubies.
Estimate: GBP 2,600 to GBP 3,000
- Rhodonite belt
Made in 1971 — presumably as part of a matching set with the rhodonite earrings — this belt offers an alternative display for the gemstone. The large cut of rhodonite in its 18-karat gold surround acts as a buckle for a black belt.
Estimate: GBP 3,000 to GBP 5,000
- Aquamarine and sapphire ring
This unsigned ring, believed to be one of Grima’s 1960s works, is the only white-metal design in the sale. Oval-cut sapphires surround an oval-cut aquamarine to create a floral look. Accenting the design are baguette- and trapezoid-cut diamonds on one shoulder.
Estimate: GBP 1,500 to GBP 2,000
- Oleander leaf brooch
The artist used lost-wax casting to create this 18-karat gold design, which immortalizes a leaf of the extremely toxic oleander shrub. A single diamond accents the piece, which was made circa 2000.
Estimate: GBP 1,000 to GBP 1,500
- Diamond brooch/pendant
Batons of textured 18-karat gold are fused together in this brooch, which is believed to be from the 1960s. More than 1.50 carats of diamonds decorate the circular design.
Estimate: GBP 2,800 to GBP 3,200
Main image: Brooch crafted in 18-karat gold and set with a golden pearl and diamonds. (Sotheby’s)
