Ox: Moving Through the Ourglass

May 22, 2024   |  Beth Bernstein

The sibling design team discusses the brand’s family legacy, honing their patented technique, and what to expect at their Couture show debut.

Sister and brother duo Jessica and Michael Busiashvili have single-handedly innovated and elevated classic diamond jewelry. Their first patented creation was an original take on the classic tennis bracelet for their Ox collection, officially launched in 2022. The Ourglass chain featured one concept, and after much trial and error was engineered to show diamonds from every angle and roll with the wearer’s natural movement while feeling silky and sexy on the skin. It has grown into a full collection, manufactured in New York, and has quickly hit a responsive chord with retailers and consumers alike. The dynamic duo credits their family history, and in particular their grandmother for instilling in them a passion for quality and diamonds.

Here we speak to the Busiashvili siblings about their future and their collection’s Couture show debut.

Ourglass bracelet in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds. (Ox)
Ourglass bracelet in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds. (Ox)

Can you tell us about your background in jewelry?
Jessica: Our grandmother, Mimi, was a Holocaust survivor who found her way to a Jewish neighborhood in Los Angeles. She traded her treasured three large old minor diamonds for Caspi’s Jewelry store on Fairfax in 1978. She ran the store until she passed on April 16, 2023. I was lucky to be a part of a family-run business with my grandmother, mother and uncle, who guided me through the enigmatic world of antiques, diamonds and design. When my grandmother passed, the store sadly closed on Fairfax. But by partnering with my brother, I feel that we are keeping the tradition of running a family business alive.

Ox Ourglass ring in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds. (Leo Bieber)
Ox Ourglass ring in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds. (Leo Bieber)

What was your original creative vision?
Jessica:
Coming from an antique background, I knew I wanted to contribute something original to the contemporary jewelry mosaic. The Ourglass bracelet is the culmination of my vision. It harmonizes form, function and luxury. While I am most drawn to design, my brother and I are both involved in the creative aesthetic of the brand.

Ourglass Minute in 18-karat yellow gold with five interlocking Ourglass links, set with diamonds. (Ox)
Ourglass Minute in 18-karat yellow gold with five interlocking Ourglass links, set with diamonds. (Ox)

Can you describe the Ourglass collection in more detail?
Michael:
The engineering is all about symmetry. The name Ox takes its inspiration from the fundamental Ourglass link. The round diamonds resemble the letter O and the link’s hourglass shape suggests the letter X. The two components intersect into one form, with a diamond set in each of the four ends. Therefore, there’s no wrong way to wear it. The collection, which has evolved to consist of a ring, a necklace and a linear earring that also can double as a hoop, is engineered to have rotational movement, so naturally the diamonds brilliantly sparkle from all sides and angles, engaging the senses.

Model wearing Ourglass earrings as a dangle. (Ox)
Model wearing Ourglass earrings as a dangle. (Ox)

What is the newness you will showcase at Couture?
Jessica:
The classic Ourglass bracelet will be scaled down. We will also be unveiling a new twist to the Ourglass collection we are calling Time Out, and the beginning of a new group of non-movement jewelry called the Exo collection.

Exo collection of non-movement band and signature earring in 18-karat gold with diamonds. (Ox)
Exo collection of non-movement band and signature earring in 18-karat gold with diamonds. (Ox)

What do you expect for your Couture debut?
Michael: From the start, growing our brand has been quite organic. Participating in Couture this year is a natural growth opportunity. We believe the best way to get to know Ox is to experience it. The opportunity to reach a wider customer base through national retailers who shop the show will hopefully spread the word.

Main image: Jessica and Michael Busiashvili. (Ox)

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